You will struggle using a cordless drill, unless at least 18v with hammer. Use 5. HMC Locksmiths. In order to drill holes into a lintel you will require a corded hammer drill. It needs to have variable speed and needs to be powerful. I am assuming you are trying to drill the holes with a cordless drill - no chance of success. Using the correct drill, first drill pilot holes holes smaller than required then you can drill the holes to the correct size for the rawl plugs All good answers ,but I put it up slightly higher and drill into brick work,or block.
Serai Interiors. The cheapest and most sucessfully way to drill into concrete for fixing purpose's. A standard hammer drill is no where near strong enough. Other methods. Such as Specially hardened drill bits need a slow speed with the hammer function switched off or a diamond tip drill bit will need water pumped onto it, to keep the bit cool, to stop it's tip from burning off.
My biggest tip is. Whatever material you are drilling into be it wood. Let us help you find a tradesman local to you. Drilling into concrete or steel lintels and also fixing into concrete and steel lintels has presented problems for years to DIY enthusiasts and professional alike. For concrete lintels the answer is to start your fixing holes with the smallest masonry drill bit you can get, normally 3mm, and work up to the size you require. The smaller the drill bit the easier it will go through concrete.
If you hit steel reinforcing in the concrete lintel however, there is no choice but to move the fixing hole or follow the instructions and diagrams below. Due to how tough lintels can be it is recommeneded that you only use an SDS drill and drill bits. When drilling any holes it is also important that you hold your drill straight so that the hole you drill is also straight.
With your hole drilled to the correct size for the wall plug or fixing you have chosen some fixings can be used without the need for a wall plug , position the holes in your lintel and the item you are fixing over each other and insert your screw or fixing. Steel lintels are even more difficult to fix to as, once you have drilled through the plaster and reached the steel lintel, you must then swap drill bits for a high speed steel bit and then use self tapping screws to fix the item you wish to hang.
This is a very difficult process not least because once you have drilled the hole for the self tapping screw, you then have to locate it again to put the screw into it. Considering there is always at least 20mm between the surface of the plaster or plasterboard to the lintel, this is no mean feat.
If you decide that drilling is the best option to use other than the one outlined below then ensure that you have a decent drill to hand, a range of different sized drills bits and also ensure that they are sharp.
Trying to drill something as hard as steel and concrete with a blunt drill bit will take a lifetime and also put a large amount of un-needed pressure on the drill itself. Also ensure that you have a decent drill bit that fits the screw head tightly and also a decent bit holder to ensure the bit does not slip and become wedged in the bit holder check out our review on drill bit holders for more info.
With your hold drilled in both the lintel and also the item you are fixing to the lintel if needed position the two with the holes aligned and pop your screw in and screw it up. Ensure that you have the driver set to the correct torque setting and it is set to screwdriver and not drill and screw it up tight. A much easier option which will always give you a good fix is to glue a section of timber to the head soffit of the window opening and fix to that.
The construction adhesives available these days are wonderful and as strong as any mechanical fixing. Always read the manufacturers instructions as some construction adhesives recommend the surfaces to be glued together should be damped down slightly first. In the example we have given here the client chose to have a timber glued the full width and depth of the soffit.
At which point it could have been filled with wood filler and decorators caulk and painted. You could just fix a narrower timber up to the soffit and fill and paint it.
A piece of planed square edged PSE timber was cut to length and a heavy weight construction adhesive applied to the back. Will drill through anything. Cheers, i was wondering about the accessories, i bought some titan bits before and they were shockingly bad. It doesnt need to do much, I can only see 5 or 6 jobs to do with it but its only slightly more than hiring one and a lot cheaper than getting a pro in.
For the OP, decent drill and plugs should be fine. For Dr P, if you use chemical fixings make sure you get all the dust out the hole first. As a structural engineer working on bigger stuff than houses!
We are renovating a 60s house and the windows are huge. After failing to drill past the rebar I suspended the 2 piece curtain pole at both ends and joined it with some old flat handlebars from as orange. Once I flipped it round it held in compression against the lintel and I was able to just screw the support into the plaster. Ikea sell lightweight fabric stick up blinds which look entirely acceptable IME.
Any decent SDS drill corded or cordless 7 mm bit and brown plugs with some 5x70mm screws job done. No need for chemical fixings as even when I worked on heavy mechanical installs we used hilti red eyes and 10mm bolts to hang kg condenser units on exterior walls. I use hilti bits or punk ones from Travis.
Travis punk ones are quite good too. Had them up, been taking them down as got curtains up now. SDS goes into anything like butter and therefore you get a much neater hole. Yes your makita is fine for the odd hole but more than about 5 and its worth getting an SDS and a decent drill bit- you wont eat drill bits and make a messy hole.
And I need to mount fixings for a blind under one. I put blinds and curtains up for a living. For concrete lintel use a decent SDS drill with 5. For metal lintels, start with HSS 2. Suspect you could hire the SDS for the day, or borrow.
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